Mangiare Bene

Italian Food News December 2009

Happy Holidays & Buon Natale From all of us at Cooking Vacations!

Sweet desserts from our kitchen are on the menu for the holidays! Small little Capri Cakes sprinkled with pine green and rosy red sugar crystals. Fresh fruit creatively transformed into a snowy winter wonderland and a silver tray filled with yummy cinnamon cookies holding small sugar candy canes in hand. These are a few of my favorite things in our kitchen at the holidays. The special holiday desserts that are a tradition in Italy are worth waiting for! Whether it is struffoli piled high and drizzled with honey and nuts, hand-made torrone, cenci dusted with sugar, zepole spiked with apple or a slice of sweet panettone, you will be returning for seconds!

 

 

One bite of any Italian Christmas treat and you will want to learn how to make it in your own kitchen. Italian desserts for the most part are simple and easy to make, and Nonna’s or Mamma’s recipes are the best. In 2010 we will be adding Seaonal Cooking With Nonna- special Spring & Winter cooking class programs featuring olive oil making, bottling olives and making marmalades during their respective seasons. New programs for 2010 are also going up each day!

 

Sending you sweet wishes for the holidays and a healthy New Year!

 

Lauren 

 

December’s Winter Wonderland

It is impossible, but the year has positively sped by and the holiday season is with us once more, and Italy and the Italians are preparing for one of the most important events in the religious calendar; Christmas. While it’s undoubtedly an important celebration, Christmas festivities tend to be slightly different here than back home. Firstly, Santa Claus is a relative newcomer, and while you’ll see a few rosy cheeked Santas in many towns and villages, he’s still outnumbered by the may exquisite handmade presepi or nativity scenes that characterize Christmas in Italy. Every little town and village has its own precepe, some constructed in easy-to-visit locations, others tucked away in hard-to-reach rocks and caves, some even built under water like the one at the Grotta dello Smeraldo, the Emerald Grotto on the Amalfi Coast. Some of the larger precepi to be found in the major towns and cities take your breath away - as anyone who has visited Naples, for example, will know - with their intricate moss-covered hillsides and detailed village scenes complete with lights, music and running water. Shepherds, cobblers, cheese-makers and fishmongers are all present, with the baby Jesus, the Sacred Family, the Wise Kings and a host of Angels composed at the middle of the scene. And the precepe put up every year outside the Vatican in Rome is quite, quite beautiful.

 

It is said that the first nativity scene was built by San Francesco of Assisi in an attempt to involve locals in the Christmas story. He constructed it in a cave in the small town of Greccio near Assisi and held a mass there on Christmas Eve. Who knows if he realized what he was starting! Today in Italy you can also visit the so called precepi viventi, living nativity scenes, with their many pageants and processions. In the Tuscan town of Barga, more than 100 different characters in costume accompany Mary and Joseph on their journey around the town in search of lodging, while in Rivisondoli in Abruzzo, the precepe vivente celebrates the arrival of the Three Wise Men. After many of these events, local gather in the town piazza to enjoy a mug of mulled wine and maybe some roast chestnuts, turning the evening into a real celebration.

 

But whether you manage to squeeze in a visit to a presepe or not, Cooking Vacations wishes you a joyous holiday season, full of family and friends, love and laughter.

 

Table Talk

With Christmas round the corner, this is a busy month in the Italian kitchen. Apart from all the various traditional sweets that have to be whipped up - struffoli, roccocò, panettone, pandoro, panforte - there is also the question of the Cenone di Natale, Christmas Dinner, which in most places takes place on the evening of the 24th and not the 25th. What will be cooked depends on the region of course. Up in Veneto it might be baked tagliatelle and stuffed roast duck; in Lombardy, capon consumée and pumpkin tortelli followed by roast turkey or stuffed capon then panettone; in Emilia Romagna, culatello, tortellini in broth, stuffed pig’s trotter served with lentils and mostarda followed by a rich fruit-laden Christmas cake; in Calabria, stuffed crepes, pasta with pork ragù and roast kid; while in Lazio and Campania fish is the main dish, with baccalà, eel and generous portions of fried fish to be found on many menus. But whatever the menu, rest assured that there will be enough delicious traditional food to feed an army.

 

In the days running up to Christmas, local produce markets are a veritable hive of activity with men and women alike shopping for the best fresh produce and traditional goods, with prized ingredients like fish and shellfish sold as quickly as it hits the stall and prices often rising by the minute. The fish market in Naples, for example, becomes an open-air theatre, with the whole city out to purchase the best eels, clams and salt cod. The market stays open till late afternoon, each stall lit up in the early evening gloom, sellers yelling or singing about their wares, buyers elbowing each other out of the way, their eagle eye on the last live scampi or lobster. In the chaos, eels and octopus slip out of their tubs and make bid for freedom only to be scooped back up by the watchful stall-holders and thrown back where they belong. Someone somewhere will probably be selling hot brodo di polpo, octopus broth, and the whole scene is like something out of a fabulous Italian Christmas film - unforgettable.

 

While not everyone is lucky enough to be able to spend the holiday season in Italy, most people have a well stocked local market to visit and a fabulous celebration dinner to create. This month we’ve included the recipes for three (more or less!) traditional Italian Christmas dishes from different areas to jump-start your creativity and help you plan a truly memorable celebration dinner. We hope you enjoy them as much as we do!

 

Buon appetito!

Recipe Book

Paccheri fritti ripieni di baccalà / Fried pasta stuffed with salt cod

 Salt cod is a true Christmas staple, and this delicious modern Neapolitan dish brings an original slant to a traditional idea.

 Ingredients for 4 people

For the paccheri

  • 200g paccheri or other wide tube shaped pasta
  • 50g each of diced celery, carrots, and onions
  • 200g baccalà (salt cod) in pieces, previously soaked to remove salt, bones and skin removed
  • Small glass of Prosecco
  • 100ml milk
  • 100g fior di latte (mozzarella made with cow’s milk), diced
  • Handful each of chopped basil and chopped parsley
  • Salt and white pepper
  • 50g flour
  • 2 eggs, beaten
  • 50g fresh white breadcrumbs
  • Olive oil

 Cook pasta in lightly salted boiling water until al dente. Be careful not to overcook. Drain, place in a bowl with a little olive oil, mix and leave to one side. To make the stuffing, fry onion, celery and carrot for 5 minutes, then add baccalà. Toss together for a few minutes. Pour in Prosecco and cook until it has evaporated. Add milk and continue to cook until mixture is well mixed and densely creamy. Leave to cool.

 Add the chopped fior di latte to the cooled stuffing mixture along with the chopped basil and parsley. Season if necessary, but remember that the baccalà mix might already be salty enough. Fill the pasta with the stuffing. Roll each tube of pasta in flour, then in the beaten egg, and finally in the breadcrumbs. Fry in olive oil at 170ºC until golden brown. Drain quickly and serve immediately.

 

Cappone Ripieno / Stuffed Capon 

 This recipe hails from Molise where capons were traditionally bred and raised. A capon is a young cockerel that has been castrated and fattened, an antique practice that yields particularly tender meat. Of course a good quality free range chicken could be substituted but might take a little longer to cook.

 

Ingredients for 6 - 8 people

 1 capon, 3 – 4kg, with giblets

 

For the stuffing

  • 25ml olive oil
  • 300g homemade breadcrumbs
  • Pinch salt
  • 1 small clove garlic, finely chopped
  • Handful flat leaf parsley, finely chopped
  • 50g Parmesan
  • 4 eggs, beaten

For the sauce

  • 50ml olive oil
  • ½ onion, finely chopped
  • Cup of water
  • 200g tomato concentrate
  • ½ liter water

 To make the stuffing, chop giblets into small pieces. Heat the olive oil in a small frying pan and gently fry the giblets. Once cooked, mix with the breadcrumbs, salt, garlic, parsley, Parmesan, and beaten eggs. Sprinkle the cavity of the capon with a pinch of salt, add the stuffing and sew the opening closed.

 Next place the capon in a large terracotta pot along with 50ml of olive oil, the onion and the cup of water. Cook uncovered over a medium heat until the water has almost completely evaporated, turning capon from time to time to give it a nice golden brown color all over. This stage normally takes 40 – 50 minutes. Next, mix the tomato concentrate with the ½ liter of water and add to pot. Cover and cook over a low heat until an obvious layer of oil has formed on the surface of the tomato sauce. (3 hours or more, depending on size of bird.) This is a sign that the capon is perfectly cooked. Remove from pot, carry to table and carve. Glaze capon with a few spoonfuls of the sauce and serve with slices of the stuffing and perhaps some fried polenta chips.

 (Traditionally the leftover sauce would have been used to flavor pasta - usually a long pasta like spaghetti or bucatini - for the first course of the Christmas dinner, but it can just as easily be kept for Boxing day. Skim some of the oil from the sauce and simmer, uncovered, over a medium heat until it has reduced somewhat.)

 

Panforte / Christmas spice cake
 

Sliced thinly, this specialty from Siena is a perfect accompaniment to small cups of potent black espresso, or, why not, a warm glass of mulled wine.

 

Ingredients for 1 cake

  • 200g almonds
  • 100g walnuts
  • 100g hazelnuts
  • 150g candied orange and lemon peel, chopped
  • 100g dried figs, chopped
  • ¼ tsp ground cloves
  • ½ tsp ground coriander
  • 1 tsp cinnamon
  • Pinch white pepper
  • Generous pinch freshly grated nutmeg
  • 50g cocoa powder
  • 75g type 00 (or all-purpose) flour
  • 175g honey
  • 100g sugar
  • 25g powdered sugar plus 1 tsp cinnamon

Preheat oven to 180°C/350°F, and line a buttered 24cm round cake tin with rice paper. (Otherwise, buttered, floured baking parchment will do.)

Toast the three types of nuts under a hot grill, being careful not to burn them, then chop or whiz briefly in a food processor. Place nuts into a bowl and add the candied peel, the figs and all the spices. Sieve in the cocoa powder and the flour and mix well.

In a small, thick-bottomed pan (or in the microwave), gently heat the honey then add the sugar stirring continuously until the honey is hot and the sugar is perfectly incorporated. Pour honey mixture immediately over the fruits and nuts and stir gently until well mixed. Spoon mixture into the prepared cake tin, smoothing the top with the spoon. Bake for 40 minutes until dry. Allow to cool slightly then remove cake from tin and place on a wire rack. Once completely cool, dust the top of the cake with the icing sugar mixed with the cinnamon. Alternatively, cake can also be covered with melted dark chocolate. Wrapped well in foil, this cake will keep for up to a couple of months.

Food For Thought

If you cannot make it to Italy, we bring Italy to you~

 

Become A Basket Case!

Featuring some of the finest Italian ingredients this side of a ‘Venetian Ristorante’, Gourmet Gift Baskets ‘Premium Italian Gift Basket’ delivers all the ingredients you’ll need to create an authentic gourmet Italian dinner. In it you’ll find delicious goodies such as the imported Italian pasta, Elena's amazing Basilicata pasta sauce, garlic and herb dipping oil, aged parmesan crackers, rosemary breadsticks, balsamic salad dressing, Italian salad, wild mushroom risotto, and much much more. The perfect gift for the Italophiles in your life!

www.gourmetgiftbaskets.com

 

Pick Up A Panettone

OK, no holiday season would be complete without a good old-fashioned Italian panettone and Bauli is one of the most famous producers of this Italian Christmas sweet bread. These delicious cakes are made during a long process that involves curing the dough then a proofing process that gives it its distinctive fluffy characteristics. Some of the things added to the panettone are candied orange, citron, raisins, and lemon zest, which makes a delightful Christmas treat that is enjoyed all over the world.

www.englishteastore.com

 

Holiday Prosecco Salute!

Give champagne the cold shoulder this year and opt for some Italian bubbly to get you into the party mood. Once upon a time Prosecco was regarded as Champagne’s poor Italian cousin, but it is now coming into its own as a perfect festive drink, to be enjoyed either on its own or used to create delicious cocktails such as Bellinis. Some say Prosecco was produced as far back as Roman times, but whether this is truth or fiction, modern, crisp, aromatic versions are a real treat.

 

Italian Sagras, Feasts & Festivals

December is an especially magic month for visiting some of Italy’s many sagre and festivals, and taking in some of the most beautiful Christmas markets you could hope to find. Here are a few of the best.

Via San Gregorio Armeno. Anyone in Naples over the festive period should take a walk along Via San Gregorio Armeno, now known as ‘Christmas Alley’, in the Spaccanapoli zone. It’s always a favorite at this time of year and part of the fun is fighting your way along the crowded alleyways to the many shopfronts selling the figurines that fill Italy’s characteristic precepi or nativity scenes. As well as all the normal characters you’d expect to find – the Madonna, San Giuseppe, the baby Gesù and a whole host of different shepherds, artisans and wise men, you can choose between some of the personalities that have made the news recently: athletes, singers, politicians: Barack Obama and Sivio Berlusconi are sure to make an appearance this year.

 

Mercatino di Natale ‘Stella Cometta’: Torino, Piemonte, 6th - 8th December. The colors, perfumes and favors of this Christmas market make it truly magical and a wander round the many pretty stalls is the perfect opportunity to pick up some presents for friends and family, or even a few decorations for the home. The colored lights and the appearance of the Stella Cometta, the comet, will enchant children and grown ups alike as they nibble on local specialties and enjoy the background Christmas music. Kids can even hand their letter over to Father Christmas who will take a sleigh ride round town distributing candies and smiles all around.

Mercatino di Natale di Bressanone: Bressanone, South Tyrol, 27th November - 6th January. All the stalls are set up in the town’s Piazza Duomo, and it’s here that people come to try out traditional regional Christmas goodies washed down with a warming glass of vino cotto or mulled wine. Not only will visitors be able to pick up some of the area’s beautiful hand carved wooden objects, but they can also take an organized tour of the Cathedral and Cloisters, attend one of the many musical concerts or enjoy a trip round the town in a horse-drawn carriage.

 

La Fiera di Santa Lucia, Bologna, 21st November - 28th December. This is one of Bologna’s most ancient festivals, one that dates back to Napoleonic times! Held at the Portico of Santa Maria dei Servi, numerous stalls are set up, and whereas it used to be more of a market in the true sense of the word, there are now many other aspects to the fair, including the possibility of sampling local gastronomic specialities, and finding out more about local artisan skills, including the production beautiful statues and nativity scenes.

Cooking Vacations’ Property Of The Month

Antique Tuscany-Castles & Vineyards

 

Pappardelle & Pecorino With Chef Claudio~6 Days

 

Italy On A Plate By Germaine Stafford

Germaine continues her roundup of what's happening in the culinary world in Italy and gives you her chef of the month, book recommendation, and a list of seasonal foods for December.

 

What's in Season?

 

Sea Bass

Turkey

Celery

Parsnips

Swede

Red cabbage

Turnip

Leeks

Onion

Carrots

Swede

Kale

Beetroot

Celeriac

Pumpkin

Cranberries

Apples

Pomegranate

Pears

Restaurant Of The Month

Il Postale, Città del Castello, Umbria

Before choosing this month’s restaurant, we asked ourselves where we’d like to be during the holidays, in which little corner of Italy we’d like to hide away and celebrate ‘far from the madding crowd’. Not the big cities - too busy; not the well known resorts and towns, we decided, but a beautiful, bucolic destination amid rolling hills and valleys. And where better than Umbria? And having got that far, it didn’t take too long to decide on Città di Castello, a town in northern Umbria worth visiting in its own right - it has a pretty centro antico and a great art museum - but all the more so once you know of Il Postale.

Originally a garage for postal delivery vans, Il Postale (the ‘Postale’ was the first bus that carried people and letters from Città di Castello up to Fano in Marche), is now a jazzy one star restaurant run by Chef Marco Bistarelli and his wife Barbara. They may be young, but Marco and Barbara already have 20 years experience in the restaurant industry under their belt, and it shows. The kitchen is run with dedication, discipline and efficiency and the results are visible in the continually excellent dishes it produces. Marco’s philosophy is to treat excellent local produce with respect and simplicity, in a way that reflects genuine flavors and attracts a growing number of people to quality cuisine. He’s extremely loyal to regional products but his innate curiosity and love of learning means Il Postale’s menu is always new and stimulating without being pretentious or overly fussy.

Your first impression on entering is that of a genuinely warm welcome as you are greeted by Barbara and her staff and helped to your table. Tables are prettily appointed, but the real protagonist here is the food. Roast cockerel with potatoes cooked in cocoa butter; terrine of foie gras and brioche with orange and pumpkin compote; roast scallops with asparagus and sea urchin - these might be some of the dishes you’ll enjoy as an appetizer. Then come the pastas; Marco’s delicious interpretation of carbonara; mezzemaniche pasta with an oxtail and celery sauce (to die for); and seaweed and goat’s milk ricotta ravioli with pink shrimp. Second dishes include a seriously good roast pigeon, the leg stuffed and served with foie gras and vegetables; roast lamb with baby onions and sweet and sour sauce; pork neck served with apples and beer sauce, and perhaps a cod in papillote with peppers, squid and shellfish. You’ll have no room for dessert, but have one anyway; you couldn’t possibly resist a lavender flower bavarese with orange wafer and pear and ginger ice-cream, could you? Or a chocolate mousse with mango jelly, cardamom ice-cream and almond brittle? And if at this point you’ve stopped caring anyway, finish it all with a plate of local cheeses and homemade jams. You’ll be glad you did!

Via R. De Cesare, 8
06012 Città di Castello (PG)
Tel. (+39) 075 8521356
www.ristoranteilpostale.it 

Book of the Month

Big Night In: More Than 100 Wonderful Recipes for Feeding Family and Friends Italian-Style, by Domenica Marchetti, Chronicle Books. 

We thought that with the festive season approaching, we’d choose a book that encourages folks to cook up a storm and celebrate with friends and family at home, and ‘Big Night In’ fits the bill perfectly. Author Domenica Marchetti has created a series of dishes especially geared for entertaining, and while they’re not seasonal dishes as such, many would nevertheless make the perfect way to pass a celebratory, winter evening at the dinner table. Some dishes are more casual than others, some easier to prepare than others, but all have segmented ingredient lists, do-ahead lists, tips and descriptions, all of which allow cooks to prepare as much as possible ahead so more time can be spent with guests on the night.

Marchetti’s chatty tone makes for easy reading, making the cooking process more personal and her tips and anecdotes make the perfect introduction to her recipes, infusing the book with warmth. ‘Big Night In’ has ideas for feeding hungry relatives, preparing intimate dinner parties or throwing big family parties, but whatever the occasion, the emphasis is on creating comforting, delicious food to share with the people you love. For a family night in you might want to prepare something simple like the Mediterranean Composed Salad, the Farmer’s Market Minestrone or the delicious sounding Rosemary-Rubbed Butterflied Leg of Lamb. For a more important family dinner, how about Gabriella’s Lasagna Verde alla Bolognese, Truffled Mushrooms or Spicy Seafood Chowder with Sweet Fennel followed by Cheesecake Sundaes with Raspberry Sauce? But there are also great foods for more formal gatherings that include Gorgonzola Stuffed Dates, Seafood Risotto with Prosecco and Roasted Capon with Porcini Butter. End the night off with a Chestnut Cognac Bavarese or a Pandoro Trifle with Vin Santo and your guests will still be talking about the food for weeks to come. A well organized book with wonderful color photographs (as you’d expect from Chronicle Books!) that will become a firm favorite.