Mangiare Bene

Italian Food News January 2010

Happy New Year & Felice Anno Nuovo
- from sunny Italy

Warm winter recipes from our test kitchen are a few of our favorite things in January. And although the crowds are gone, our Test Kitchen in Italy is cooking up a storm. We have been mixing, baking, and creating new recipes, new ideas for the new year. We have lots of new programs in different regions and recipes too. We have been busy in the kitchen, visiting our Chefs, food leaders and purveyors throughout Italy, so we can keep bringing good food things to you.

Although it may be snowing in your area, keep warm with our hot new recipes paired off with a great Italian wine. Felice Anno Nuovo e buon appetito!

Lauren

Table Talk

Christmas and New Year are over, 2010 is upon us, and let’s hope it will bring peace, joy and happiness to all of us. Starting the New Year in Italy brings many different traditions. Firstly, anyone who wishes to ensure a successful and prosperous New Year is advised to don their best red underwear on New Year’s Eve! Italians swear it’s the most effective good luck charm around.

Next, it’s time to get rid of things from your past that are no longer needed or that keep you from progressing. In more orderly towns this might involve burning a few symbolic items on a specially built bonfire where you can toss an ex-lovers’ letters among the flames or rid yourself of handkerchiefs that have seen too many tears. In some of Italy’s more exuberant cities, this might involve throwing unwanted items out of a third-story window or dragging a bed onto the balcony and tossing it onto the street below. While these more extreme versions of ‘getting rid of the past’ are becoming less frequent, there are still some small (and large!) towns and villages that refuse to toe the civic line.

But even in the smallest villages you’ll find firework displays that threaten to shatter the glass in nearby windows and send powerful vibrations through spectators’ bodies. Fire works are considered auspicious as they are held to drive out the evil forces of the previous year and welcome the year ahead with lights. Many cities now also host free concerts in their main piazzas, so if you’re in Italy over the new Year, you might be lucky enough to catch some star-studded event with many well known singers and performers who turn up to entertain the crowds.

And last but not least, pop open a bottle of Prosecco to celebrate New! You never know, it might bring you everything you were dreaming of...

With best wishes for a prosperous and happy 2010!
 

January Food Notes

So you’ve danced the night away, partied with friends and drained your best bottle of Italian bubbly - so what’s next on the menu? Well, traditional New Year's food varies from region to region, but one of the most classic dishes to be eaten all over Italy is pork of some kind served with lentils. Cotechino is a favorite, as is stuffed pig’s trotter, and both are ideal as their savory juices blend perfectly with the small green lentils. So why pork, and why lentils? Some say pigs symbolize progress, but it’s probably because pork is a rich fat meat that represents wealth and prosperity, and lentils because their small round shape is said to be similar to that of coins, again signifying prosperity. In fact, whatever you choose to cook, this is the time to indulge a little and ensure that your New Year’s Day’s Table has an abundance of food and wine: both traditional ingredients like candied fruit, dried fruit and nuts, and something bringing a touch of luxury, like oysters, lobster, caviar or truffle. Of course, luxury doesn’t have to mean lots more work - a platter of oysters need only to be opened (granted not always the easiest of tasks!), pasta or risotto with white truffles is a fast and delicious treat, as is a delicious champagne risotto, and if you’re fortunate enough to have caviar... well it’s as simple as opening a tin!

This month we suggest some traditional New Year’s dishes from all over Italy. The unmissable pork with lentils to bring luck galore, crepes or crespelle which you’ll find in many different regions - our version has salmon, passatelli bolognese, a kind of homemade pasta made with breadcrumbs and a great all round dessert featuring the season’s typical dried fruits. But of course, nothing is more important than the gathering together of family and friends around a table, and certainly, nothing could provide a better start to the happy and fortuitous year to come.

Buon anno!
 

Recipes From The Kitchen

Crespelle al salmone / Salmon crêpes

Ingredients for 4 - 6 people

12 crêpes (either ready made or shop bought)
200 g smoked salmon (more or less 12 slices)
1 carrot
1 shallot
1 rib of celery
50 ml béchamel sauce
100 ml whipping cream
Handful of grated Parmesan
Butter
Olive oil

Finely chop the carrot, shallot and celery and sauté in a little olive oil until everything is soft and transparent. Add the cream, stir, then throw in the grated Parmesan. Stir in the béchamel sauce, season with salt and pepper and leave to cool. Lay the crepes out flat, lay a slice of smoked salmon on top, then spread the cooled vegetable mixture on top. Roll the crepes up and place in a buttered ovenproof dish, and dot with small additional pieces of butter. Place in an oven preheated to 440°F (220°C) for about 8 minutes or until heated through. Serve immediately.


Passatelli bolognesi

Ingredients for 4 people

2 liters of meat broth
3 eggs, beaten
50g butter, melted
250 g grated Parmesan
200 g homemade breadcrumbs
2 tbsp flour
Nutmeg

In a bowl, use your hands to mix together the breadcrumbs, flour, eggs, 200g of the Parmesan, the butter, a grating of nutmeg and then season generously with salt and pepper. If the mixture is too stiff add a spoonful or so of broth. Bring the broth to a boil. Take a potato ricer with largish holes and push the bread mixture through the holes and straight into the boiling broth, cutting the strands off every 3 or 4 cm or so. Boil until the passatelli float to the surface, then serve with a generous sprinkling of grated Parmesan.
 

Cotechino con lenticchie

Ingredients for 4 - 6 people

One large cotechino type sausage
300 g small green lentils
2 bay leaves
Olive oil
1 onion, peeled but left whole
Handful finely chopped parsley

Puncture the cotechino so the skin won’t split when it cooks. Place the cotechino and lentils in a large bowl and cover with water and leave everything to soak overnight. Next day, drain the lentils, and place in a pan with a cup of water, a drizzling of olive oil, the bay leaves and the whole onion and season with salt. Leave to simmer, adding a little more water if necessary. Meanwhile, wrap the cotechino in greaseproof paper and place in a pan of water, simmering for half an hour or so. Remove cotechino from pan, and add to the lentils and cook for a further hour or until lentils and cotechino are fully cooked. Drain the cotechino, peel and cut into slices. Check seasoning of lentils, and stir in parsley. Serve the slices of cotechino with a generous portion of lentils.


Macedonia di frutta secca / Dried Fruit Salad

Ingredients for 6 people

175 g dried apricots, cut in pieces
175 g dried figs, cut into pieces
175 g prunes, cut into pieces
175 g sultanas
175 g currants
25 g candied orange peel, minced
1 apple, peeled and cubed
Small glass orange juice
25 g pine nuts
600 ml Marsala
Nutmeg

For the Marsala Cream
75 ml Marsala
1 tbsp brown sugar
150 ml whipping cream

Place the dried fruit, peel, apple, and orange juice (but not the pine nuts) in a large bowl, add a sprinkling of grated nutmeg and cover with the Marsala. Cover, and leave to soak in the fridge overnight. Next day, place mixture and juices in a pan and simmer for a few minutes. Turn into an ovenproof dish and place in the oven to cook at 250°F (120°C) for about 3 hours. Remove fruit from oven and allow to cool. At this point, the fruit can be kept in the fridge for 3 or 4 days until you are ready to use it. Before serving, prepare a Marsala cream by adding the sugar to the Marsala and stirring until it more or less dissolves. Whip the cream, stir in the Marsala and whip again until cream reaches the soft peak stage. Serve the fruit in bowls or in large glasses and top with a sprinkling of pine nuts and a dollop of Marsala cream.

 

With Love From Italy,

If you cannot make it to Italy, we bring Italy to you~

Leonardo, the Renaissance Engineer. Anyone lucky enough to be in Naples at the end of January should try to take in this unique exhibition at the city’s Hotel Mediterraneo. From 25th Jan - 25th March, nine full-scale models of industrial machines invented by the great Leonardo Da Vinci will be on display. These machines were recreated by the Niccolai Museum and by the Associazione Homo Millenium of Florence, faithfully following Leonardo’s drawings and calculations. Not to be missed!

The Later Tiziano and sensuality in painting. Opening in January and held in Venice at the city’s Galleria dell'Accademia, this exhibition presents 28 masterpieces painted by Tiziano during the last years of his activity as an artist. A unique opportunity to appreciate the sensuality and sensitivity of one of the world’s greatest masters.

La Scala, Milan. Every so often in life you need to treat yourself, and nothing could fit the bill better than a night at the opera at Milan’s La Scala. This January brings Bizet’s Carmen with conductor Daniel Barenboim and director Emma Dante, two artists who embody the southern spirit that dominates this opera. All you have to do is put on your glad rags, turn up and soak up the inimitable atmosphere of one of the world's greatest Opera Houses.

Loro Piana. Start out the new decade in super-chic Italian style with Loro Piana’s clothing, cashmere, leather bags, travel items and fabrics. The company boasts decades of history and tradition, and is still based in the northern town of Valsesia, where its activity started back in 1924. From cashmere blankets, scarves and sweaters to sumptuous cashmere fabrics and carpets for interiors, no one does luxury better than Loro Piana.
www.loropiana.com/eng
 

Italian Feasts & Celebrations

Italian Sagras, Feasts & Festivals
 

Don’t let the winter weather deter you from visiting some of the fabulous sagras organized during the month of January all over Italy. By the time you’ve finished eating, you won’t feel the cold at all!

17th Mostra del Radicchio Rosso Tardivo di Treviso, Zero Branco, Veneto. As most radicchio lovers know, January and February are the best months for enjoying this deep red bitter vegetable, and during January, there are a variety of radicchio sagras to be visited all over the Veneto region. The one held in the town of Zero Branco near Treviso is held from the 8th - 17th January, and over and above being able to sample local specialties such as gnocchi, pasta and pizza with radicchio, you’ll also be able to try more unusual offerings such as radicchio grappas, liqueurs and cheeses. Music and dancing make this a great venue for kids too.

Festa dell'olio & Fagiolata, Cineto Romano, Province of Rome. Traditional flavors are celebrated in the town of Cineto Romano with this sagra on the 10th January which celebrates the year’s new olive oil and local beans. And never have two such simple ingredients tasted so good. Sample the area’s splendid oil drizzled straight onto warm bread or bruschetta, and use it to garnish a hot plate of pasta with beans. And just to make sure that no one goes hungry, there will be piles of hot, grilled local meats on offer too.

Sagra delle Braciola. All over the province of Rome during the month of January, you’ll find a series of sagras dedicated to the ‘braciola’. The sagra of Camerata Nuova is held on the 17th January and in all the town’s piazzas you’ll find huge open grills full to overflowing with sizzling meat. This festival which originated in memory of the terrible fire that destroyed the old town in 1859, now includes stalls offering lots of delicious local specialities like gnocchi in meat sauce, side dishes, and regional sweets, all washed down with generous helpings of local wine. But save some energy for the games and dancing later in the evening!

Sagra del Polentone. Fight off the effects of winter weather with this festival celebrating Italy’s deliciously filling polenta. Held in Orvinio in the province of Rieti on 24th January, this sagra offers up slices of polenta grilled and served with sausages. Side dishes include local chicory, and of course, local wine is available to wash everything down. A real treat whatever the weather!
 

Cooking Vacations’ Property Of The Month

White Nights Praiano

Blue Sky, Starry Nights & Cerulean Sea ~ 6 Day


 

Italy On A Plate

By Germaine Stafford

Germaine continues her roundup of what's happening in the culinary world in Italy and gives you her chef of the month, book recommendation, and a list of seasonal foods for January.

What's in Season?

Duck
Goose
Parsnips
Broccoli
Brussel sprouts
Truffles
Persimmons
Carrots
Broccoli rabe
Beetroots
Apples
Pears
Kiwis
Leeks
Artichokes
Celeriac
Fennel
 

Restaurant Of The Month

Palatium Enoteca Regionale, Rome.

It’s true that this is actually a wine bar as distinct from a restaurant, but nevertheless, you’ll find some great food here. Palatium has a lot going for it: it’s tucked away in the very heart of Rome’s center just a stone’s throw from the Spanish Steps, it’s a showcase for a variety of different products and wines from Lazio, and there are two different spaces given over to eating and tasting - one downstairs and the other upstairs. And given the locale’s focus on local produce, it’s basically a zero-kilometer operation. Palatium makes the perfect spot for grabbing some lunch after a morning’s sightseeing, and it’s the best possible way to discover some of Lazio’s traditional dishes. Here the kitchen crew, headed by Chef Tommaso Grossi (of the Antonello Colonna school), works with excellent produce and create some delicious local fare, but despite the traditional element, the overall feeling is light and modern.

Antipasti might include a fabulous beef carpaccio with wild salad with marjoram and local pecorino cheese, fried zucchini flowers on a bed of creamed zucchini, eggplant timbale with smoked buffalo cheese, basil and fresh tomato, or a platter of local, salumi or cheeses. Pasta dishes include the unmissable cacio e pepe and Amatriciana, but fettuccine with baby octopus and olives from Gaeta or the ricotta ravioli with lamb and pecorino might provide too tempting to resist. There’s always a choice between fish and meat for the next course, though Rome’s abbacchio - suckling lam - is a must for those who have never tried it, but you might opt instead for an involtino of silver scabbard fish and buffalo mozzarella with zucchini and thyme, or a fillet steak with balsamic vinegar. Desserts are simple but delicious - hazelnut and trifle semifreddo, yoghurt and strawberry tart, selection of homemade ice-cream, and end the meal on just the right note.

As the name suggests, there is an ample variety of wine sold by the glass, and hundreds more by the bottle, and staff are well qualified to suggest a suitable wine to accompany your choice of food. What’s more, the bill won’t frighten you to death, which is always an added pleasure. In a tourist city like Rome where it’s lamentably easy to fall prey to the hundreds of tourist traps serving indifferent food at prohibitive prices, Palatium is a true gem of a find.

Palatium Enoteca Regionale
Via Frattina, 94
00187 Roma
Tel: +39 06 69202132
Email: info@enotecapalatium.it
Web: www.enotecapalatium.it
 

Book Of The Month

Slow: Life in a Tuscan Town
By Douglas Gayeton

Some books break boundaries and create a whole new reading experience, and this is one such volume. Part art, part personal travelogue, part mirror for a disappearing way of life, ‘Slow: Life in a Tuscan Town’ is a sensitive and engaging book on the everyday pleasures of growing, preparing, and eating food. In his first person account of the people, families and food artisans of the town of Pistoia near Florence, Gayton, a skilled photographer, takes us on a gastronomic journey through the hidden heart of Tuscany and introduces us to a culture that derives its most profound rhythms from nature and the preparation and consumption of food. Through his eyes, we are encouraged to slow down ourselves, look beyond the surface of the book’s images and take pleasure in the people and the style of life that underpins them. Some photographs are straight shots of local scenes; others are craftily layered collages of different images connected by the themes of community and food. But all exert a visceral charm on those who already love Italy and its gastronomic traditions.

Meet fishermen, bakers, wine producers, hunters and foragers whose gastrocentric approach to life requires time, patience and the willingness to be slow. The book’s glorious black and white photographs are more than mere moments in time - time being a major preoccupation of Gayeton’s - but rather a complex, multi-layered image that tells a story, or flat films as Gayeton prefers to call them. Everything the author came upon during the five years it took him to create this book plays its part - Renaissance painting, Tuscan proverbs, recipes, countryside, local characters, politics, football and Italian bureaucracy - you name it, it’s part of the picture. But perhaps what is most appealing of all are Gayeton’s handwritten comments that appear on the photographs and in the margins, helping the reader to become part of the scene and inspiring a better understanding of the simple Tuscan life. One thing is certain however; after you’ve read this book, you will itch to travel to Italy to discover your own personal ‘Slow’.